Subak Bali's ancient irrigation system

One of Bali's greatest assets is its stunning rice fields. Just by looking at them you can imagine that maintaining them is pretty complicated. So not surprisingly there is an organization responsible for the irrigation of these fields which is called the 'subak'. Every Balinese village has one of these so called irrigation organizations and all rice field farmers are obliged to join Subak and do what this organization asks them to do.  Bali is a mountainous volcanic island and to get the water supply from the mountains onto the rice fields below isn't an easy job. It takes a complex system of canals, tunnels, pipes, dams and dikes to flood or drain the rice fields at the right time.

If a Balinese rice farmer had to do this by himself it would be mission impossible. That's why the Balinese had to organize themselves into Subak or irrigation organizations since the ninth century to create something we travellers today love to see and make pictures of. The irrigation organization plans the distribution of water to all the rice field farmers and ensures that there is no shortage. It also does repairs on the many canals, dams and dikes and helps to prevent that sand or waste clogs the rice fields. The head of the organization is called the 'kliang' and the headmen are called 'penyarikan subak' who have assistants called 'pangliman'.
Comparable to meetings which we are used to the 'kliang' can be seen as the chairman who opens the meetings and he is the one together with the 'penyarikan subak' that takes important decisions by majority vote regarding everything that has to do with irrigation and agriculture.

They also keep records of all of its members and when necessary even hand out fines to those members who do not abide to the rules of the irrigation organization. Every rice farmer has to join these meetings otherwise he gets fined. During these meetings the chairman talks about the repairs which have to be done, the money already spent, communication with government officials and agreements made with other irrigation organizations. When repairs have to be done all of the members have to be present but they don't have to do it themselves, they can hire other workers to do the job for them.

When you take a walk around one of the rice fields around Ubud or Jatiluwih you can see the rice farmers working on the maintenance of the dams and canals while you see other farmers harvesting or planting rice seedlings which only happens on certain days according to the religious calendar. Even though the sight of a rice farmer planting seedlings is already a Kodak moment, before even allowing to plant his first seedlings many rituals have already taken place beforehand. One of these rituals takes place at the water source at Lake Batur or Besakih on the slopes of the Gunung Agung. Here the 'kliang' together with the 'pemangku' (village priest) and four of five members of the irrigation organization place offerings at these sacred places to get a blessing from the deities of the lake.

They then carry some water from these water sources in a bamboo container and place it at the shrine in the middle of the rice fields. They believe that the deities are manifested inside the container and therefore a feast is given to honour them. The members of the irrigation organization will entertain the deities by performing dances so they won't leave the area. The rice fields are then sprinkled with some of this sacred water and the rest of the water is given to the main canal which brings it to the rest of the rice fields. If you're interested in how the cycle of rice works you can have a look at the Subak Museum in Tabanan in Banjar Senggulan which is open from Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 8 am to 4.30 pm and Friday from 8am to 1pm.